When a person builds an engine they usually have their buddies come along and offer assistance. There is only one problem with this. Engine building theories will vary greatly from person to person, so in turn you have five different people with five different opinions on how to get the job done. So how do you sort through what is the good stuff and what isn't? Well experience is one way, but where does this experience come from? Reading is one way to gain experience. Reading combined with the wisdom that time often brings and a LOT of hands on projects is usually the best way to gain experience. So sit back, relax and take in this knowledge that I am about to impart to you.

1) Build every ford you can get your hands on.
You don't really think I would recommend that do you? That's one of the deadliest of all. No, I just did that to get your attention. Now that I have it I might as well say my piece. We'll start from the beginning here. First of all remove the hood, you wouldn't want to try and remove the engine with the hood still on the car. Whether you are simply rebuilding the engine that already exists between the fenders or pulling one from a junkyard, when you take the engine out of the car your going to drive make sure you mark all of the wires (alt, for alternator, dist, for distributor … and so on) to make sure you can figure out where they go when you put everything back. It can't hurt to take a few pictures of the brackets either so you can figure out how everything goes back together, believe me it will make you cuss trying to figure out how to get those things back on from memory and trial and error alone. Don't cut any wires or hoses unless absolutely necessary. Most wires and hoses will have provisions for removing the whole thing without cutting anything, but sometimes the installation of a wire or a hose is a one-time deal, so a SAWZALL might come in handy. You should also remove or cover your radiator overflow tank and windshield washer fluid reservoir if the hood will be off the car for a while, as these items can get brittle if left in the sun for too long.

2) Tearing it down
Usually you start by removing the intake, heads, water pump… and so on. If your cylinders have excessive ridge at the top, you will need to "grind" this ridge out with a ridge reamer in order to remove the pistons. When you tear down an engine inspect every part closely. For instance: a broken ring will often necessitate boring the block, so it pays to look at these parts. If you are going to be re-using any parts of the engine (which is highly ill advised for some parts), break out the ZIPLOK bags, your gonna need 'em. Match each component, of each cylinder. For example: put the rocker arm from the #8 cylinder with the pushrod from the #8 cylinder, and put those with the valve from the #8 cylinder. Put the rocker arm from the #7 cylinder with the pushrod from the #7 cylinder just don't put the pushrod from the #3 cylinder with the rocker arm from the #5 cylinder…and so on. Do you see a pattern here? Check levelness of the heads and block by using a straight edge of some sort. Mark the pistons AND the connecting rods if you plan on re-using them. The reason for this is because each connecting rod has to back on the crank journal that it came from. The reason for marking the rod and the piston is so if you separate the pistons from the rods you wont be able to figure out which piston went on which rod. In order to mark the rods and pistons, you might be able to use a very hard very sharp nail or screw, but this can be unreliable. The best thing to use is a number punch or an engraver; just make sure each component is clean BEFORE you do this.

3) The machining process
After you get the engine torn down you will find a plethora of items that may need to be machined. More often than not, the valve seats on the heads will need to be machined (good time for that 3 angle valve job). The crank may also need to be machined, as a crank has the tendency to "loose its round", in other words, the journals on the crank may not be perfectly round. So in turn the crank must take a trip to the local machine shop. Some (NOT all) machine shops will tell you that the crank needs to be ground… when it really doesn't need any machining at all. This is a bit more common than one might think. If you even have the slightest idea that your machinist is giving you the run around, now would be a good time to get a micrometer. You don't have to get anything fancy, just a cheapie. All you need to do is learn how to read a mic, and your set. That way you can go to the machinist and say "this crank needs to be ground" instead of asking "does this crank need to be ground?" if you are going to getting anywhere in the 400 hp mark (with or without nos, blower etc) some additional machining may need to be performed. "Decking" the block and/or heads, align boring the main journals and having the boring performed with a torque plate should be standard procedure for a high performance build. If you spring for some boring, get the pistons first then take the whole shebang to the local machinist, if you have press in wrist pins you may need to talk the machinist into pressing the pins (and no beating the wrist pins in with a big hammer and some lube isn't an option). Building engines isn't like performing carpentry; you can't be in the ballpark and call it good enough to move on. When you break the 1 hp per cubic inch mark you want all your tolerances to be as close to perfect as humanly possible. You don't want anything to be "in the ball park" when your spinning six thousand rpm.

4) Peaceful assembly
This is going to be a long one, so be patient. First of all I will start by saying "ALLWAYS USE BREAK IN LUBE, not oil, break in lube!" (Note: do not use break in lube on the piston rings) Generally when a person starts a build they start with the block, so that's where I'll start. First o fall get the cylinders honed. Most of the time, the boring process will come with a honing, but if the block wasn't bored (or the machinist is a tight wad), it'll need to be honed. If you do it your self, (and it's your first time) try to find a book or magazine that shows you how, make sure you get a 45 degree cross hatch pattern. After your block gets bored and/or align bored (assuming you had either of these operations performed) make sure everything fits the way it's supposed to. Do a "dry run" with the pistons by taking the piston (If you are not re-using the piston, and have different ones inspect them very carefully for cracks, chips or anything else abnormal. Also make sure that the piston is clean, not just kinda clean, clean enough to feel safe licking it) and putting it in the cylinder (without the rings on) just to see how well it fits. If the piston is visually too big, or won't fit you obviously need different pistons. Now that the pistons fit the way that their supposed to, its time to move on. Now it's time to check for crank/bearing clearance by means of "plasti-gauge". Plasti-gauge is something that looks like thick fishing line and comes wrapped up in paper like a candy bar. You simply place a small strip (about one inch long) plasti-gauge one the journal of the crank, then you cinch the main/rod bearing down (just like you are normally putting the bearing on, only without break in lube) then when the bearing is properly torqued, remove it once again. Now the plasti-gauge will be flattened out, save the paper that the stuff is wrapped in, you'll need it. On the paper there are stripes, if the plasti-gauge is now as wide as the stripe, that means you have ideal clearance, if the 'gauge is considerably narrower or wider, you either have too tight or too loose of a bearing or something isn't lined up right. Now, if everything checks out ok, it's time to remove the 'gauge (whatever you do, don't use a die grinder, a pocket knife might work if your really careful. Just don't press too hard, you don't want to scratch your newly ground crank). Now put a very liberal amount of break in lube on each bearing, (also put some sort of lube on the back of the bearing, where it fits in the saddle. Break in lube will work here just don't get carried away) not the whole tube, but don't be stingy either. Now slide the bearing in place, torque everything down to proper specs. When you install the pistons it's a good idea to put some sort of slippery substance on the rings. There are about 80 zillion opinions on what to use here, so I will just say, "use your best judgment." You will need a ring compressor to get the ring/ piston assembly in place. (Note: pistons and connecting rods have a front and back and a left and right side, you can't always use the pistons from the left bank in the right bank, also piston rings will have an up and a down, the up side will usually be marks d in some fashion. This is why it's important to keep track of where every component comes from) A tapered ring compressor works best, but only works with one size of cylinder. Unless your running engine assemblies shop, a tapered ring compressor isn't practical or necessary (seeing as how you will probably use that specific size compressor about one time), an adjustable unit will suffice. Find some hose of some kind (under hood vacuum or heater hose works well), and cover the rod bolts with it so that they wont scratch the cylinders when you install the pistons. Now use the plasti-gauge (again) and check for clearance of the rod bearings (the same way you did with the main bearings). This is a good time for a break, eat some lunch, or play cards, do something for about 30 minutes. Then come back to the task at hand. Now with the rotating assembly all put together, spin the crank a time or two by hand. Check all of the nuts again with the torque wrench (sometimes a torqued nut/bolt will "settle" a bit, causing the nut to loosen a few foot pounds) re-torque what needs to be re-torqued and move on. It's time to install the cam. Put a liberal coating of assembly lube on the cam (the lobes, the journals… all of it), and stab it in. Next up is the timing chain; it's not too difficult to figure out how that goes on, when you get the chain on make sure that the cam is degreed right ("straight up" "advanced" or "retarded"). Now come the heads (woohoo!). You will need a spring compressor to assemble the heads if you didn't get that done at the shop. Head studs are recommended but not necessary, bolts will suffice. Be careful to check for any grit or debris on the head surface, the block surface or the head. Even the smallest item will mess things up. Once the heads are assembled its time to drop in the lifters and pushrods and time the valves, then onto the intake and carb. This is one area where silicone is mans best friend, don't use too much of it, or you will be just as bad off as not using enough. (Note: hydraulic lifters will often need to be "soaked" in oil, if not the lifters will collapse when the cam tries to open the valves… not good) If the heads or block were ever milled you will more often than not need different pushrods, if not the rocker arms might not be centered right on the valve. A pushrod length checker can be made for pennies (see sidebar: Tools, and Tricks) Timing the valves can be tricky, very tricky. To time the valves you will need infinite patience and the memory of a super computer, an experienced builder can do this, but any mere mortal novice can do it with the help of a Chilton's manual.

5) Installing the beast
Most of the time you will need to remove the motor mounts, not the parts bolted to the block, the parts you left on the frame. To remove them you will need to do one of two things: 1) get a special wrench. The wrench idea will work well, but it can be pretty tricky, and even trickier getting the nuts back on. Imagine it this way: try tying a knot in a matchbox using only a pair of tweezers. 2) Cut a hole in the frame (not one the size of a baseball, just big enough to fit a socket in) directly in line with the back of the nut. On some cars you can put the motor in without removing the motor mounts, but its tricky. If you opt to cut the holes, drill them out so they are round, thread them, and put a plug in the hole. You also might try to tack weld the nut to the frame for future ease of installation. When you bolt up the transmission make absolute sure that the mating surface is clean, very clean. This is one of the simpler parts of a motor swap; the harder parts are yet to come. If you opt for headers now would be the ideal time to install them, as the motor will be "loose" from the frame, in other words you will be able to rock the motor a bit to gain clearance. One easy way to install the headers is to turn the boltholes in the ends into slots. Now put the header up to place, start the bolts in the end, and drop the gasket in place. Now put the other bolts in place, and cinch 'em all down. Voila, pretty neat huh?

6) Hookin up
Well, not that you've got the biggest part of the live toad swallowed, you can start with the little things. What are the little things? Little things are getting it all hooked up after you took it out. This is when marking all those wires and taking pictures of brackets come in handy. Pretty much all you have to do is hook up the starter, alternator, distributor and the rest of it. Be careful not to install the thermostat upside down, they don't work extremely well that way. Once all this is done, you fire it up.

7) Firing it up
When you hit the key, you shouldn't have to grind on it for 20 minutes, if you do… something's wrong. If it wont start easily, don't grind on it for long that only wipes the break in lube off, making all your precautionary efforts pointless. If it won't start immediately do the following: check the timing, make sure the distributor is hooked up correctly, make sure the plugs are firing (when they are supposed to), make sure that you have an adequate supply of gas being delivered and make sure you filled the lifters with oil like I told you to. If all this checks out and it still wont start, consult an expert. Once you get it running vary the rpm from idle to about 5000. Stepping it up a little bit at a time and stepping it down a little at a time. Different engines need different break in procedures, so check around for what is best for yours. Now most of all, don't drive like a maniac for at least 500 miles, keep the revs below 4000 for the most part, all in all just go easy on it for a while.

Tools and Tricks

1) Keeping the trans supported.
While the engine is out of the car, you need some way to keep the transmission supported. If you don't keep it supported you may get the transmissions tail shaft in a bind, this isn't a good thing. To keep this from happening all you need is a stout broom handle or a good piece of pipe. Measure the distance from the outside of one frame rail to the outside of the other. Cut a piece of pipe or the broom handle to that length. Now thread two bolts into the bellhousing to motor (the holes second from the bottom) bolt holes so that they stick out about three inches (it is best to use a 3-31/2 inch long bolt, and place it in the hole, and then thread a nut on the threads. Use a washer on the back of the bolt where it meets the bellhousing). Place one end of the broom handle on one frame rail and the other end of the handle on the other frame rail. Now slide the handle under the bolts, so that the bolts will rest on the handle.

2) Pushrod length
If the heads or block were ever milled, you will need shorter pushrods. But how do you know how much shorter they need to be? Simple, all you need is an orphaned pushrod, a good hacksaw, a file, an orphaned rocker arm, a tap and some "allthread" "or "ready rod" (whichever you prefer to call it). Cut the pushrod in three pieces. The first cut should be in the middle and the second should be about two-thirds towards one end. The pushrod will be hollow, all you need to do file it smooth where you cut it with a hacksaw (this is a more of a precautionary effort than an effort of necessity). With the old pushrod cleaned up all you have to do is find the right sized allthread to fit in the pushrod and tap both pieces of the pushrod (just tap the "inside" pieces of the pushrod, DO NOT tap the "cup" end where the pushrod meets the lifter or the end where the pushrod meets the rocker arm, these two ends must not be cut, filed or modified in any way) to accept the allthread. Thread the allthread into the pushrod. This way you can make the pushrod longer or shorter just by giving one end of the pushrod a twist. With the head bolted onto the block properly, and cinched down to specs place some of the lifters in the lifter bores. Turn the camshaft until the lobe is pointed down, so that the cam will not lift the lifter. Take a magic marker and mark the top of the valve stem (where the rocker are rests). Cinch the rocker arm down like you normally would with any other pushrod. Turn the motor over a few times by hand, enough to wipe some of the marker ink off of the valve stem. Where the tip of the rocker arm is riding on the valve stem, there should be a stripe across the valve stem where the rocker arm wore some of the ink off. If the stripe is towards the exhaust side of the stem, the pushrod is too long, if the stripe is more towards the intake side, the pushrod is too short, if the stripe is in the middle then its just right. If the stripe is too far one way lengthen or shorten the pushrod until the stripe appears in the middle. Measure the pushrod with a pair of calipers (do not use a tape measure for this measuring, you must measure EXACT length) then call your favorite cam manufacturer and have them custom make a set of pushrods to your specs. Comp cams can make a set of pushrods for about anything, as will most major cam companies.

3) Getting started
If your starter has to be shimmed for proper alignment with the flywheel, it can be hell getting the starter and shims limed up with the holes in the block. There is however a solution to all this. All you need is about an inch of electrical tape and some very thin sheet metal (a beer/pop can will work very well here). Most shims will have a "nub" on the end opposite of the "open end" bolthole. Wrap the inch of tape around the nubs (if you need to use more than one shim, if you only need one shim skip this step) so that they are all lined up. Cut two square pieces of sheet metal (pop can) about one inch by one inch. Cut a slot out of the square piece (so the sheet metal looks like a horse shoe or a "U") that is just as big as the threads of the bolt. This sheet metal will be a makeshift nut, a very thin nut. Put the bolts through the starter (like they normally go) then put the shim(s) on. With the bolts in place and the shims on place your sheet metal "nuts" on the threads of the bolt. Voila, now your bolts are held in place by the sheet metal, now your shims will stay put. All you have to do is line up the starter bolts with their appropriate holes. Much easier isn't it?